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The Lovely Ladies: Lilacs
If you grew up anywhere in the northern two-thirds of the United States or
in Canada, mention May, and the lovely scent of lilacs will instantly come to
mind for many of you. I know it comes to my mind! Lilacs are one group of
plants of various species that overwhelmingly do well in the northern reaches
of the continent. Granted, there are newer cultivars that have low winter
chill requirements, but if you live in zone 8 or warmer, the choice of
cultivars is slim pickins'. These plants require winter chill, and thrive in
zone 7 and on to the lower zones, with some doing well even after a -40 F. reading!
Lilacs bloom for only a very short period of time. Their heady fragrance is the
hallmark of mid- to late-spring, and there is no finer activity than gathering
armloads of these lovely ladies for vases and containers around the home.
I still prowl the city and countryside looking for abandoned homes and farms
with old bushes of the common, and still most beloved varieties. Even after eight
years of lilac growing at my present home, I still love to gather these free and
wild common lilacs to supplement the blooms of my own.
Even though most of us are familiar with and cherish the lavender blooms of
Syringa vulgaris, or the common lilac, there are many varieties that we
can grow to extend the lilac season. If your property is large enough to support
more than a few bushes, I would suggest trying a few more of the other species and
cultivars to extend the season a bit. Here is a sampling of some lilacs available for growing in our Southern Great Lakes Region:
| Sampler Chart Of Hardy Lilacs In Bloom Sequence (Earliest to Latest) |
| Name |
Species |
Color |
Scent |
| Pochahontas |
Hyacinthiflora |
Single dark maroon-purple |
Heavy |
| Asessippi |
Hyacinthiflora |
Pink-lilac |
Heavy |
| Blanche Sweet |
Hyacinthiflora |
Blue buds to whitish blue tinged pink |
Heavy |
| Sister Justina |
Hyacinthiflora |
White |
Heavy |
| Krasavitsa Moskvy |
Vulgaris |
Pale pink to pinkish white |
Heavy |
| Sensation |
Vulgaris |
Deep purple with white edge |
Moderate |
| Charles Joly |
Vulgaris |
Double dark red |
Heavy |
| Ludwig Spaeth |
Vulgaris |
Deep purple large single |
Heavy |
| Primrose |
Vulgaris |
Yellow buds to creamy yellow florets |
Moderate |
| Sarah Sands |
Vulgaris |
Dark red-purple with lighter edge |
Heavy |
| Donald Wyman |
Prestonia |
Dark purple buds to wine-red florets |
Spicy |
| Isabella |
Prestonia |
Clear pink |
Spicy |
| Miss Canada |
Prestonia hybrid |
Red buds to dark pink |
Spicy |
Lilacs are not that hard to grow at all in our region; just plant them, and they will grow.
The trick is to get them to bloom. There are many reasons lilacs fail to perform.
It might be that a particular cultivar is a shy bloomer, or only blooms heavily every other
year. If it fails to bloom after a three or four seasons from planting, there might
be other problems that are easily corrected.
If you have an established lilac that fails to bloom, one common and often overlooked
cause of bloom failure is fertilizer. Most people grow lilacs out in the open lawn.
Any lawn fertilizer you place on the lawn is going to reach the lilac bush. You might
have the greenest, most lush lilac around, but all that nitrogen that your lawn craves
might be causing your lilac to expend energy on foliage rather than blooms. If
you fertilize your lawn, avoid the area around the lilacs. If you hire a lawn
service, inform them to not fertilize within the drip line of the lilac bushes.
Lack of sunlight might also be another cause. Lilacs require a minimum of six hours
of sunlight to perform their best. If you are growing them against the garage
near a north facing wall, or in the shadows, you just aren't going to get many blooms.
Improper pruning can destroy a lilac display. Snap off all the dead blooms within
a week to ten days of blooming. Lilacs set next year's buds shortly after flowering,
so you don't want to delay in removing spent blooms. Pruning to remove suckers and to
maintain shape and growth should also be done after bloom time. Stretch this renovation
pruning over a three year period so you don't sacrifice blooms by whacking away
at your shrubs all at once. Take a third of the oldest branches out the first year
and any suckers that you might see. Do the same the second and third years.
It is a myth that lilacs will do well in poor or heavy soil. Yes, they will grow in
clay, but only if it drains well. Lilacs area at their best in a soil that is slightly
alkaline or neutral and high in organic matter. They benefit from mulching and do
appreciate a fertilizer higher in phosphorus. This is the second number on fertilizers,
and if you can, give them organic fertilizer, low in nitrogen, please!
Lilacs benefit from mulching and regular watering. Don't neglect to give them a
drink, even if they are established.
That about wraps it up about lilacs. There are many more varieties than what I have touched
upon here. By choosing varieties wisely, it is possible to have a sequence of bloom from mid to
late April until late June or beyond. They are a must in anybody's yard, and if you
only have room for one, please plant at least one somewhere on your property.
Within a few short years, you can be picking armloads of these lovely ladies and
enjoying their beautiful flowers and heavenly fragrance!
Page Last Updated January 29, 2006
Copyright 2001-2006, Marilyn K. Burns. All Rights Reserved
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