Simply Shade Trees

This is a subject that is near and dear to my heart. Trees are as essential to the life of this planet as is the air that we breathe. Trees help to keep the climate regulated, and the product of their transpiration, oxygen, is the reason that we can exist.

Once upon a time, the Eastern Hardwood Forest covered much of this country and Canada. It covered an area from the Atlantic Ocean roughly to the Mississippi River. It was broken only by some stretches of prairie in between. It is said that once upon a time, theoretically, a squirrel could jump from tree to tree and never touch the ground until he came to the Mississippi. Of course, that is an exaggeration, but the point is made: Trees were abundant at one time on this continent, particularly in the Eastern regions, including our Southern Great Lakes Region.

Most of what we see in parklands and forests today are actually 2nd, 3rd, or more growth forests and woods. Very few stands of virgin woods remain, those trees that never saw the hand of man. Most of what we see as far as "big" trees are concerned are less than 150 to 200 years old.

Not only have we cleared land for industrial and agricultural purposes, but we are now adding more homes and office buildings and businesses. Even these post-virgin wooded areas are diminishing.

The one thing every homeowner should do is to plant trees on his or her property. I have seen many homes that look so stark and bare without trees in the yard. Granted, we will not live to see much of what we plant reach full maturity, but it is a legacy that we need to pass on to future generations.

We can plant some trees for quick growth and "instant gratification". At the same time, we need to plant some of those grand trees that grow more slowly but outlive us by generations.

Trees are beneficial in so many ways. They offer sanctuary for wildlife, help as windbreaks in the winter, and offer shade in the summer. They regulate temperatures of nearby structure and help to filter pollutants from the air and add oxygen to the environment.

When we moved to our newly-built home some years ago, we were blessed by having a large stand of trees behind the house and bordering our lake. We also have a tree line that includes sycamores, maples, sassafras, and oak to the side and back. There is also a large cottowood out back in the yard itself. Even though I would never have planted a cottonwood, it will remain because of its stature and shade, for as long as God allows.

In the front yard, nothing but the lawn we planted existed. Because they are relatively fast growing, we added a hybrid red maple out front. Out back we planted a cimmaron ash and another hybrid red maple. In the far back near the woods, we planted a sweetgum tree.

Planting trees is not that difficult. In our area, spring or early fall planting will work for shade trees. The trick is to find appropriate varieties that will do well with your soil conditions. Even though my soil is overall pretty sandy with only a few moist areas, we planted the red maples. So far, despite the rapidly draining soil, they have done well and are growing fairly quickly. (Red maples thrive in moist areas, as do black gums). Other trees might not do well in moist conditions or adapt well to dry situations.

A good bet is to go to a local nursery in your area, and see what is growing and what they nurseryman recommends. Nurseries are wonderful resources, and they are in the business of selling and maintaining nursery stock. They cannot afford to keep nursery stock that will not survive or do well in our region.

Your county extension agent is also a marvelous resource. The people down at the extension office are there to educated and advise, and they do a great job of it. I have called them on many occasions when I am stumped or need to make decisions regarding plants.

When choosing a tree, be careful of site selection. Even though my red maples may grow rapidly, they do not hold up well to storms, and branches will break off. They are situated not very close to the house. They are not as notoriously shallow-rooted as silver or Norway maples are, but they are still shallow-rooted. The maple out front is also planted away from the driveway.

Another consideration is litter. That cottonwood out back looses twigs and small branches with every storm. We don't get the cotton balls on this tree because it is a male. However, it does have messy catkins every Spring.

Know where sewer lines, power and cable lines, and septic systems are located. The tree might mean future headaches if planted near any of these areas. A prime example of a tree to keep away from sewer lines and septic systems is the weeping willow. It absolutely adores moisture and can invade sewer systems.

Tree shape is another consideration. Will it develop a broad crown or be pyramidal in shape? Seasonal interest is another important factor. Will it have enticing fall foliage and winter appearance? A tree should offer visual interest throughout the year.

When planting a tree, try to buy the largest tree your budget and back can afford. If you can get the nurseryman to plant your tree, you are all set. If not, you need to know what you can manage as far as transporting the tree and moving it to its planting site. You need to know your soil, how it drains, how much shade the tree will eventually cast, etc.

Once it was common practice to add compost and amendments to the backfill when planting a tree. The current practice is to plant the tree in the soil in which it will grow without using amendments. This is to encourage the tree to send out roots into the surrounding soil which will help it to become established more quickly. If your soil is hard clay and tends to stay wet, you might need to plant the tree so that it will be slightly elevated above the soil line and mound the backfill over the base.

If you buy a container grown tree it is a fairly straightforward process. Dig a hole wider than the tree's root system, about twice the size of the root ball, and plant it. If you are buying a balled and burlaped tree be aware that the material might not be burlap, which will decay, but a nylon or plastic "burlap" which will need to be removed. It will not decay. The same principle holds: Make the hole at least twice as wide as the root system. Do not plant the tree below soil level. As you are filling the hole, add some water when about half the fill is returned. Continue after that to refill the hole and water once more. The idea is to eliminate air pockets. If you are able to plant the tree at soil level, make a shallow depression to hold water when you water later on. When I water the tree at planting, I add a water soluble organic fertilizer at about half the recommended rate. After planting, be sure to add mulch to the base of the tree, but not against the trunk, to keep moisture in. Use tree wraps or tree guards the first few years to prevent winter damage such as sunscald and to prevent rodents and rabbits from nibbling the bark during the winter.

The first year, it is important that your tree gets about an inch of water a week. Mother Nature can be deceiving. That thunderstorm most likely will not yield an inch of water. Plan on setting the hose on your tree at a very slow rate for a while, probablly about 20 to 30 minutes. Make sure all the soil around the tree is adequately watered and not just in one spot.

You can start fertilizing your tree at the recommended rate and intervals in the second year after planting. There are many great organic based fertilizers and I highly recommend their use.

Trees really are an investment in the future. I don't know about you, but I feel a certain awe when I think that my trees are actually helping the environment and will be there when I am long gone. Make plans to plant a tree or two. If we all do, maybe someday our forests will return.