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Spring just wouldn't be spring without daffodils! They offer so much to the winter-weary spirit. The bright splashes of crayon-yellow and other perky hues fill the niche for brightness and color, just when we need it the most. Moreover, they are such a low maintenance group of plants. Daffodils perennialize well, and are therefore "naturals" for naturalizing. The woodland critters don't mess with them and they bloom at a time when we are most starved for a "big" flower in our gardens. They also hold up to fickle late winter/early spring weather very well, for the most part. Late summer to early fall is the time to purchase daffodils, when the best selection is available. Unfortunately, early fall can be downright hot. Storage can be a problem. Most of these bulbs need to be stored in a cool, dry, and dark location until the ground sufficiently cools for planting. Store in a cool room, and do not store near pears or apples, as the gases emitted from these fruits can have a detrimental effect on the stored bulbs. The soil in our climate generally begins to reach optimal planting temperatures in October. So, buy bulbs in September and plant them a month later. Why? Most daffodil bulbs need a 55 degree Fahrenheit or so soil temperature in order to send out roots, which they will do very rapidly. Planted earlier, and the bulbs may rot before they root. (Now, this does not affect established bulb plantings. Established plantings already have a root system in place). Daffodils can be true giants or dainty miniatures. Hardiness can vary, so be certain to pick the varieties that will do well in our region, those rated as hardy into zones 5 or 6 at the minimum. One rule of thumb, regardless of what type of daffodil or any other bulb you may be buying: Choose the largest, firmest, and most unblemished bulbs you can find. Not all daffodils are equal! Bulbs are defined by division and size. Division I and Division II bulbs are the single-flowered "classic" daffodils that we all think of when we imagine these beautiful flowers. There are thirteen divisions in all, from the smallest of the small to the true giants of the species. Since there are enough varieties to choose from, everyone should be able to find a few that will suit his or her fancy. When it's time to plant daffodils, remember to choose a site that drains well, yet is moisture-retentive. Incorporate large amounts of organic matter if your soil is sandy or tends to be heavy clay. In some instances, daffodils will do well in raised planting. Depth of planting should be about three times the height of the bulb. Add some bone meal or organic bulb food into the planting hole. Keep them watered, but not soggy, until the ground freezes. One of the loveliest sites of spring is seeing drifts of daffodils in meadows and woods. Because the canopy of most deciduous trees is just emerging when the early daffodils are blooming, daffodils will get sufficient sunshine. They will be finished blooming by the time the leaf canopy begins to cast a considerable amount of shade. If you want to have a few drifts of you own, scatter them on the ground and plant them where they fall. Water well, and wait for the show next spring! Keep in mind that daffodils do naturalize well, but some are better at it than others. Most catalogs will list those that are particularly good for naturalizing, and often offer naturalizing collections for a good price. Miniature and wild species daffodils are good choices for the rock garden. Some of them are quite unique in appearance, and all are very indearing. Be sure to plant of few of these along with other small flowering bulbs. Just take care to pick varieties of other bulbs that will complement the daffodils and bloom at the same time. After your outdoor daffodils have finished blooming, do not cut or tie the foliage. Allow it to ripen and die back. Add a balanced organic fertilizer to the site. If you do not like the sad appearance of ripening foliage, plant daylilies near your daffodil plantings. The foliage is similar to that of the daffodils, and will hide the imperfections. If seed heads start to form, remove them. I routinely trim back the first two or so inches of the daffodils at any rate as soon as the flowers fade. By removing the spent blooms, daffodils will put their energy into storing food reserves into the bulbs for next year's flowers instead of in setting seed. Daffodils are good for forcing. Some do not even require pre-chilling. The paperwhite narcissus are so easy to force, they often sprout in their packages at the store! Place them in shallow pots or saucers filled with pebbles. Add enough water to reach the top of the pebbles and set the bulbs on the stones, with the bases barely touching water. They will bloom in a few weeks, and often with a strong fragrance. Those hardy bulbs that can be grown indoors do require at least twelve weeks of chilling. Find containers, and add a soil and gravel or soilless mix. The mix should be moisture retentive, but drain well. Add the planting medium to within 1-1/2 to 2 inches from the top of the rim. Plant your bulbs closely, shoulder to shoulder, and keep the growing tip exposed. Keep them dark, and in a cold but not solidly freezing place. An unheated garage or cold frame works well, as does a dark corner of an unheated, enclosed porch. After the minimum weeks of chilling requirements are met, check your pots for roots coming from the drainage hole and sprouts. Bring them indoors to a cool, dimly lit room . The shoots will gradually start to turn green. You can then gradually bring them into warmer and brighter conditions. Not all daffodils will produce flowers again once they have been forced. The hardy Dafs have a better "track record" for reblooming if planted into the open ground after they have been forced, so it won't hurt to try it. Just be aware that it can take a couple of years for these forced bulbs to recover sufficiently to bloom. Whether you call them daffodils, jonquils, narcissus, or just plain ol' dafs, these lovely and informal flowers symbolize the best of spring. Try growing some daffodils. I promise you will be hooked and you will look forward to "daffodil daze" every spring! |