
|
Let's face it: Today's home property is much smaller in size than those land-hog properties of quarter acre (or more) that were fairly common thirty or forty years ago when people first started moving out to the 'burbs. Developers have "wised-up" and are offering typically less than half of what was a common tract in subdivisions in years gone by. So, the wise gardener has to settle for less land in which to develop gardens and landscaping. Anymore, it's a luxury to add plants to the landscape that only offer one season of interest or one function in the garden. It really is becoming almost essential to find plants that can perform more than one function in today's garden. One of the ways in which to provide form and function is to add edible landscaping. By that, I mean plants that can offer seasonal or ornamental interest and provide fruits, nuts, or berries for home use. One of my favorite ornamental and fruit-bearing plants that goes above and beyond the call of duty for function and usefulness is the blueberry. Here in the Southern Great Lakes region, there are many varieties that can be grown. Blueberries offer lovely spring blossoms, with lovely white bells similar to those of Andromeda or Pieris japonica. They also develop good yellow to scarlet foliage color in the fall, and can be incoroporated into mixed shrub borders, container use, or perennials beds, depending upon the variety grown. For our region, there are three choices in blueberries: Highbush, lowbush, and hybrid. Of these three, the hybrid is a compromise between the first two types. Hybrid blueberries will reach about the same size as a rose bush, in height and width, or on average, about two to three feet tall. Highbush blueberries make excellent screening plants and will reach about six to twelve feet in height and about four to six feet in width. Lowbush blueberries are more useful as groundcovers, and will reach about a foot in height and are more spreading or prostate in nature. Most homeowners will find the hybrid or highbush blueberries to be the most effective types for use in the home landscape. The trick to growing blueberries successfully depends on soil pH and proper drainage. Blueberries absolutely must have an acidic soil. If you happen to live in one of the areas of our region that is known for its blueberry farms, your soil may already be acidic enough to grow these bushes without having to amend the soil. For those of us who have more alkaline soil conditions, amending the soil is a must. Soil prep for blueberries includes the addition of sand, peat moss, and shredded oak leaves, pine bark or pine needles to the existing soil. Anything that will increase the soil acidity while increasing the tilth or lightness of the soil will work. In addition, add some well-rotted manure to the soil. A good ratio is to remove the existing soil, mix about one part soil to about two parts peat moss, and also add two parts of the following: shredded oak leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark. Also add one part manure and one part sand to the mix. One suggestion is to clear out about 3 feet depth of soil by 6 feet across, but rather than interrupt any plants in the immediate area, it is far easier to raise the planting area. Raise the bed a bit for the planting area, at least six inches above the existing bed. Above all else, have the native soil tested and apply the recommended rate of sulfur to lower the pH. Prep the planting site in the fall so that any adjustment in pH can take effect. Plant your bushes the following spring. Also be sure that your plants receive at least 6 hours of sunshine a day. Blueberries can produce in partial shade, but best production will be in the sunnier areas of your property. Select at least two varieties for good cross-pollination. Although highbush blueberries are generally self-fruitful, as are many of the hybrids, you will have a better fruit set with two different varieties. You might want to choose two early season cultivars, two mid-season varieties, or two late-season varieties. Don't buy anything younger than two year old plants. Two to three year old plants have the best survival rates. One year old plants have a higher mortality rate. Plant your bushes at the same depth as they were growing before. Mulch with shredded bark or sawdust. Do not fertilize the first year. You won't need to prune blueberries until the third or fourth year. Remove canes that are larger than 1-1/2 inch diameter, thin to lateral stems any crossing branches, and open up the interior of the bush to let sunlight into the center. Top growth can be tipped back by about 1/4 to 1/3. Cultivate shallowly! Blueberries are shallow-rooted, so don't cultivate any deeper than about two inches. Keep the bed moist, not wet. Blueberries won't tolerate dry periods very well. Fertilize with cottonseed meal and well-rotted manure when growth first starts in the spring, and then again in early June. You can also check the pH yearly and adjust it accordingly to maintain about a 4.5 pH. As your shrubs begin to set berries, place bird netting over them to discourage foraging by birds and mammals. If you prefer, you can still grow some of these wonderful fruits by choosing the hybrid varieties that are rated hardy for our growing area. The hybrids are a bit lower growing than the highbush type of blueberry, but they still offer excellent yields and are still great for use in the landscape. These can be grown as container plants. In fact, it might be easier to grow blueberries in a container where the soil and pH needs can be more carefully met. If you do grow them in containers, be sure to keep them mulched during the winter: Two choices to consider: 'Northblue' is a hybrid that grows about two feet high by three feet wide. 'North Country' is another choice that grows about 2-1/2 feet tall by about three feet wide. Blueberries are truly a hard-working addition to the landscape! Very few plants offer as much in the way of beauty, form, and function as the blueberry. If you are thinking about adding something to your landscape, consider the versatile blueberry! |